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Weight Pull Cliff Notes
aka the Mouse
Iíll start this article by stating that many of the tips and
instructions mentioned have come from a number of sources.
Most of the people who have contributed to my week-long crash course in
weight pull training are International Weight Pull Association members with
highly trained and conditioned dogs. Iím
extremely grateful for their kindness and generosity during my trips up North.
Since there are as many ways to train a dog as there are ways your dog
can embarrass you, try a few of them. See
what works and what doesnít work
Before diving into weight training, I do have a few words
about weight pulls. There are a few
non-Swissy pulls that are recognized by GSMDCA. One being International Weight Pull Association.
So donít feel like you must attend Swissy pulls.
IWPA pulls are just as fun and typically huge.
Many people in IWPA only participate in weight pull so they really know
their stuff. At a pull ideally, you
and your dog will get into the chute. Someone
will hook your dog up to the cart, and then you will walk across the finish line
(IWPA pulls). Then your dog will
pull the cart across the line. Someone
yells ďPULL!Ē and youíre done
until the next round. Now, many
things can go wrong. Your dog can
sit down and wag its tail. Your dog
(like mine) will play bow to the spectators.
Others will bark. Some will
bounce up and down. Some will get
tangled the harness (something the judge will call for the safety of the dog). Or your dog can pull a Maximus by jumping on the cart behind
him and bark, then play bow to the brake person, and then pull while on the
cart. Duh, wrong way.
All these antics are typical for novice dogs.
Weight pull training can be started when pups are very young
because half the training is getting a dog used to a harness.
If you already do carting or packing, this part will be very easy.
Weight pull harnesses come in one piece with a spreader bar and will cost
anywhere from $50-100. They MUST be
custom fitted when pulling as an incorrect fit will either choke a dog or pinch
its neck. All sites that sell
drafting or weight pull harnesses will have instructions on how to properly
measure your dog. The harness
itself might be a little confusing to put on at first.
So try it on! No, Iím not
joking. Figure out how it is
supposed work before you submit your untrained dog to twisting, turning,
pinching, tangling, and some definitely Kodiak moments.
The easiest way to put on one of the harnesses is to put the head through
first and lay the harnesses across your dogís back.
Then pull each leg through the strap furthest away from the dog.
Then you should have the neck portion (usually heavily padded) around the
neck going across the back and the other half going under the dog between the
legs. Spreader bar in back and
presto. You have a dog in harness.
Most dogs get used to the harness quickly, but if youíre
having some trouble, use treats when in harness. Give your dog special attention and praise just for being in
harness. Hold the harness in front
of a treat so your dog must poke his head through to get the treat. Click if desired. You
want your dog to love being in harness. It
will definitely help. Eventually
add empty milk jugs or some other loud object to get your dog used to the item
of noise coming from the rear. Then the next half of weight pull training is teaching your
dog how to pull.
One way is to really make it a game.
Have toys, treats, squeakies, or a cat.
Note: no treats, toys, squeakies, or double handling allowed at IWPA or
GSMDCA pulls. This teaches your dog
to come to you. Eventually, you will need to wean your dog off of it.
This is a great method, however, it does not really teach your dog how to
pull higher weights.
Another method is through obedience.
I have seen some handlerís give their dogs an obedience recall while in
the chute. If your dog is very
obedient, this might be the way to go. However,
the dog will need to be trained and conditioned well enough to handle higher
weights. Most dogs can pull 10x their weight effortlessly.
I doubt Maximus even noticed when he pulled 1500 lbs. in Virginia.
However, at higher weights dogs will either dig in and lean into the pull
or they will ďhit itĒ (bounce into the harness in attempt to get the cart
moving then shove with the hind legs). Either
way works fine. Iíve seen dogs
pull extremely high weights using either method.
The next method is to teach it repeatatively.
Once you have your dog in harness and on leash, hook up to enough drag
weights (chains, tire, anything you donít mind getting scratched up) so that
your dog cannot easily run. You
want enough weights on there so they can feel pressure against their shoulders.
Put the dog in a stand-stay or sit stay and walk in front of your dog
with leash in hand. Give the
command to pull. If the dog does
not pull, use the leash with the snap on the back of his neck and give a gentle
pop. With the snap on the back, the
leash will push their head down getting them into proper pulling position.
Do this over and over again to get teach the pull command.
Do not allow your dog to run with weights Ė although they easily can.
This does not teach them the proper pulling position.
Sure the dog will be able to pull around 1000 lbs, but when it gets to
higher weights, this will not work. The
dog must crouch down and pull. It
is almost impossible to get 3,000lbs moving by running into the harness.
Some people have set up their own chute and practice in there
daily. This is also important
because some chutes are prime marking material.
Do NOT ever, under any circumstances, ever allow your dog to urinate or
defecate in the chute or close to the chute.
Other dogs will then start to sniff and want to mark it as well instead
After you teach your dog to pull, youíll need to condition
your dog. There are two main ways
of doing this Ė strength training and endurance training.
For strength training, have the dog pull heavy drag weights over a short
distance (20 ft or so). Some have
suggested a tire loaded with bags of sand or soil.
You also do not want to allow your dog to pull less than 16 ft.
Dogs have an uncanny ability to judge distances and some of the most
highly trained dog will stop just short of the 16ft line.
Iíve seen that happen. The
dog just stopped and looked pleased with itself, except that he was about Ĺ an
inch from the finish line.
For endurance training, youíll want to go long distances
(2-5 miles) with semi-heavy drag weights. This
means enough weights (chains are most popular) to make the dog pull and feel
pressure. Some trainers hook up
their dogs to a drafting cart and go 4 miles pulling 400 lbs. Keep in mind that
pulling with wheels is much easier than drag weights.
Rotate between strength and endurance.
Donít forget to give your dog a day off once in a while.
Now for odds and ends: When do you actually start?
When is too young? Itís never too early to start training with a harness and
empty milk jugs. Its just getting
the dog used to and enjoys being in harness.
Also, teach your dog to never defecate or urinate in harness.
This will also be most helpful for drafting.
There is no hard rule about when you can start training with weights, but
I would wait until they are at least a year old.
My general rule of thumb is: if my dog can easily drag me around, heís
probably ready for a little weight. Same
goes for drafting as once the cart starts moving, there is only one pound of
pressure being applied. I know my
own dog doesnít even notice 32 lbs in his cart.
Do what you feel comfortable with.
Do you pull a dysplastic dog? Again, do what you feel comfortable with.
My feeling on this is to allow the dog to do it if he enjoys it.
If the dog does not enjoy it or shows signs of pain, donít do it.
Just because a dog has hip dysplasia, it does not mean he or she should
be kept from enjoying life. When
humans have cancer, we donít ask that they stay at home in bed.
We rejoice when they get out of the house and enjoy doing the things they
did before. Many dogs that pull are
dysplastic and spayed or neutered. They
get to go out and enjoy having fun.
Why pass or pull? Dogs
generally have about 7-10 really good pulls before they get tired.
Youíll want to save these by passing on the lighter weights that you
know your dog can pull. Save your
dogís energy for the higher weights where it counts.
And always end on a happy note with your dog wanting to work more.
Copyright ©2002-2008 Jennie Chen All images and
articles are copyrighted.
Unauthorized use is strictly Prohibited.
Copyright ©2002-2008 Jennie Chen All images and articles are copyrighted. Unauthorized use is strictly Prohibited.